“The challenges our country encounters today regarding coffee include fulfilling demand and improving post-harvest processes to produce a high-quality coffee product,” observes Miguel Ongpin, a coffee connoisseur who has been monitoring the coffee industry.
In Indigo Diaries, Sahara Sanders wrote: “The Lord must have created coffee to reward humans for those bad times they sometimes have on Earth. Having charged your heart and brain with a cup of coffee, you’re ready to face the challenges of life. A good cup of coffee makes life seem better.”
Coffee is often considered the essential force that motivates individuals to rise each morning, and it is undoubtedly one of the largest and most important industries worldwide. Experts commonly assert that it ranks as the second most valuable legally traded commodity, following petroleum.
For Filipinos who wake up to the aroma and flavor of that morning brew, the evidence is in: Coffee, in moderation, is not bad for you after all. In fact, some studies indicate it may even have health benefits.
“Habitual coffee consumption – black and unsweetened – has more benefits on health than harm,” points out Dr. Paolo O. Dillera, a board-certified internist, gastroenterologist and an interventional hepatologist based in Davao City.
By moderation, it means a minimum of three cups (120-150 milliliters) a day and the “last cup should be taken 6-8 hours before bedtime,” Dr. Dillera suggests, adding that any type of coffee will do just fine: branded, decaffeinated, instant or home ground.
Most people avoid drinking coffee because they believe it raises their blood pressure. However, medical research has been murky on that; some studies support a link between coffee drinking and hypertension, but others do not — and a 1987 Italian investigation suggests that coffee may even help to reduce blood pressure.
“After poring over these divergent views, scientists from Switzerland and the United States decided to take a fresh look by performing detailed studies on 15 volunteers,” Harvard Medical School reported. “None of the subjects had high blood pressure or hypertensive parents, and all were healthy nonsmokers; only six were habitual coffee drinkers.”
But what constitutes a good coffee? A good coffee is characterized by premium beans, appropriate roasting, freshness, and meticulous brewing, which collectively result in a harmonious flavor, enticing aroma, and velvety texture.
“Picking the best coffee is like picking the prettiest girl in a beauty competition. We all have different preferences,” says Casey Burnett, an American missionary who’s running Bukidnon Coffee Exchange, a brand which provides premium coffee sourced from Bukidnon.
Burnett procures only green coffee beans from farmers. In order for him to buy only the best coffee, he conducted training for them. “Training is important, and also for us to make sure there is a market for even over fermented beans,” he said.
During training, he also always advises farmers to pick only ripe cherries. “Ripe cherries have achieved a proper sugar content,” he said. “This facilitates improved fermentation and intricate flavors, in contrast to unripe cherries that may taste dull and bitter.”
He also encouraged farmers to promptly submerge the freshly harvested ripe cherries in water. “Immersing the cherries in water immediately after harvest is an effective and time-saving method to eliminate damaged or unripe cherries,” he clarified. “It is significantly quicker to sort while the cherries are still fresh than after they have been dried.”
Fermentation converts unprocessed coffee into rich flavor profiles. Processing techniques affect acidity, body, and aroma. Each method requires accuracy, timing, and environmental management. Wet, dry, honey, and anaerobic techniques provide unique tasting experiences.
“The washed process (involving pulping and fermentation) typically lasts about 4-7 days for parchment, in contrast to the natural process (which involves drying whole cherries without pulping) that can take 4-6 weeks,” he said.
Drying must adhere to specific standards. “The ideal moisture content should not exceed 12.5%,” he noted. “Achieving a moisture level of 11% is even more advantageous. If the moisture content is excessively high, such as 13-14%, the beans may begin to develop mold, which can significantly reduce the coffee’s value.”
Since he buys only green coffee beans, it is necessary for him to hull – the process of removing the parchment layer from dried coffee beans to prepare them for roasting and improve quality – them.
“We use a dehuller, which is the same equipment that can be employed to crack corn,” he said. “However, ensure that you maintain a good vacuum on it.”
Following the hulling process, only the finest beans are chosen. “We possess a color sorter that assists us in accomplishing this swiftly,” he mentioned. “The majority of individuals hand sort, which is quite costly. If you are located in Mindanao, we provide our color sorting service to any growers who may require it.”
Regarding the necessity of sorting the beans, he pointed out, “Small, damaged, and sour beans each impart a distinct flavor. An excessive number of these in the blend can result in a cup of coffee that tastes bitter or ‘phenolic.’ There are various types of defects, but we educate our staff to identify them when purchasing green coffee beans.”
They handle the roasting of the beans themselves. “For our 15-kilogram roaster, a standard batch takes between 14 to 18 minutes,” he noted.
After the roasting process, the beans are cooled quickly. They allow them to rest prior to grinding. “If our customers request whole beans, we can package them immediately after they cool, as our bags are equipped with a one-way valve to facilitate the degassing of the beans,” he explained.
The roasted beans are placed into large bulk bags. Then we put them in smaller 1-kilogram, 500-gram, or 250-gram bags.
With coffee becoming popular these days, the demand is huge. “We need more farmers to plant coffee,” Burnett said. “Why import coffee from other countries when we can produce our own?”
Philippine coffee is increasingly receiving international acclaim and is also becoming favored by local consumers. As an increasing number of Filipinos develop a taste for specialty coffee, the demand for premium locally sourced beans is growing. Moreover, Philippine coffee has achieved accolades in international competitions, boosting its reputation on the global stage.
