WHAT is that drink produced from the roasted beans of the coffee plant? Quite simply, it is coffee. Reports indicate that approximately eight out of ten Filipino adults consume an average of 2.5 cups of coffee daily.
Despite its extensive coffee heritage, as it has been cultivated since the 1700s, the Philippines currently produces around 30,000 metric tons of coffee each year while consuming over 100,000 metric tons, resulting in the country being a net importer.
Due to its diverse elevations and climates, the Philippines stands out as one of the rare countries that commercially cultivates all four primary varieties of coffee: Robusta, Arabica, Liberica, and Excelsa.
Robusta is characterized by its robust flavor and primarily utilized for instant coffee. Arabica, cultivated in high-altitude mountainous regions, offers a sweeter and smoother taste. Liberica is recognized for its bold, strong, and intense flavor. Excelsa is distinguished by its tart and fruity notes, frequently grown in drought-resistant regions.
Coffee is grown predominantly in Mindanao, which accounts for about 70% of the country’s total production. The SOCCSKSARGEN region (particularly the province of Sultan Kudarat), leads in production, followed by the Davao Region (especially Davao del Sur and Davao de Oro), as well as Bukidnon (where coffee is primarily grown around Mount Kitanglad).
In Davao del Sur, the best coffee comes from those grown in the rolling foothills of Mount Apo, the country’s highest peak. As one coffee enthusiasts put it: “Smooth, with a touch of richness that feels tropical in its depth, Mount Apo’s beans embody the resilience and quiet strength of Philippine coffee farming.”
In the past, Mount Apo coffee was relatively unknown, but it has recently captured the interest of coffee aficionados, largely due to the efforts of the Balutakay Coffee Farmers Association (BACOFA), an organization that comprises coffee farmers who have united to enhance their agricultural livelihoods and seek improved opportunities.
Established in May 2013, BACOFA began with just 20 member-farmers who cultivated coffee on smallholder plots located at an elevation of 1,700 meters above sea level. With a a membership that has expanded to 68 and continues to grow, BACOFA is dedicated to producing high-quality coffee, particularly focusing on specialty Arabica green beans.
To explore what makes Mount Apo coffee potentially the finest in the country, we spoke with Atty. Elmer G. Pedregosa, a lawyer based in Manila who frequently visits his 6-hectare coffee farm located in sitio Neptune.
To make the most of his time at the farm, he allocated one hectare to create Sir Ped’s Café Mount Apo, a resort where visitors can enjoy the atmosphere while indulging in freshly brewed coffee.
Atty. Pedregosa is optimistic about the future of coffee in the region, noting that barangay Managa is ideal for coffee cultivation. He attributes this to the favorable weather, volcanic soil, fog, and elevation, which he believes contribute to Mount Apo coffee being the best in the country.
Studies show that weather plays a crucial role in coffee production, as coffee plants are particularly sensitive to changes in temperature, rainfall, and humidity. Severe or unpredictable weather patterns, such as prolonged droughts or excessive rainfall, can stress the plants, reduce yields, compromise the quality of the beans, and increase the risk of pest infestations and diseases.
The volcanic soil is exceptionally advantageous for coffee farming due to its nutrient-rich composition, superior drainage and aeration, and reliable water retention. These qualities promote strong root development, improve nutrient uptake, and result in a brighter acidity and more intricate flavors in coffee beans, making it a highly desirable medium for premium coffee cultivation.
Fog, for which Managa is famous, plays a supportive role in coffee production by providing essential high humidity and regulating temperatures, thus preventing heat stress and moisture loss during dry spells, which ultimately enhances the development of sugars and flavors in coffee cherries.
Balutakay, a sitio within barangay Managa. Actually, it was known for its coffee production. But as the international market price for coffee plunged, farmers transitioned to cultivating high-value crops such as cabbage, carrots, radishes, bulbs, green onions, sweet peppers, and lettuce.
Fortunately, some farmers remain committed to coffee cultivation. Luis A. Escalera and his wife, Janet, are among those who continued growing coffee in Balutakay. The couple has four hectares and these are located in four puroks: Melom, Gagpang, Pluto, and Mahayahay.
The Escalera couple grows Arabica coffee mainly because of its exceptional taste and flavor profile, which is more intricate and refined than that of other coffee varieties. It flourishes optimally under certain conditions, including high altitudes, a temperature range of 15-24°C, and well-drained volcanic soils that are abundant in organic matter. All these conditions are found in Balutakay.
According to them, coffee plants generally start fruit production 3 to 5 years after being planted, contingent on the variety and environmental conditions. Specifically for Arabica, it typically requires around 4 to 5 years to start yielding fruit.
The harvested coffee undergoes processing. “We transport the freshly harvested coffee berries to our processing facility. We clean the berries by washing them with clean water. Following this, we ferment the cherries for a duration of three days,” he says.
“For post-fermentation, we pulp the cherries and place them directly into our hanging dryers. Once the cherries have dried uniformly, we hull them. After hulling, the coffee beans are sorted with the assistance of our workers,” Luis says.
The good thing about this couple is that the coffee is not only supporting them financially. But it also helps their neighbors by doing the sorting of the coffee beans. “Mothers who are free in the evenings come to lend a hand. Even students participate; they do this to earn allowances for their schooling,” Janet says.
It is not that they don’t have workers available to sort the coffee beans. However, the couple wishes to assist their neighbors. “Rather than having mothers idle during their free time and possibly engaging in gossip, they can generate income by sorting coffee beans. In addition, the students benefit by not spending most of their time on their cellular phones,” Luis emphasizes.
In this manner, the Escaleras are contributing to their community by providing an additional source of income.
The compensation for those sorting coffee beans is P20 per kilogram, while those harvesting the coffee cherries receive P250 per day plus free snack and lunch.
Meanwhile, there has been a resurgence of interest in coffee, with young entrepreneurs taking advantage of a generation captivated by brewed coffees. This trend has been significantly influenced by the arrival of Starbucks, a prominent American multinational coffeehouse chain, in the country. The company’s dedication to youth education and empowerment, along with its commitment to sustainability, has positively affected the younger demographic.
Unlike previous times when bars served as the primary social venues for young people, cafés are now widely utilized as social environments for studying, socializing, or working, effectively bridging the divide between home and workplace.
One young entrepreneur who established his own coffee shop is Rj Lumawag, an award-winning Davao-based journalist. “I always enjoyed a good cup of coffee. It has always been a dream to open a coffee shop. However, the opportunity was never there. I do not earn enough to start one,” he recalled.
In 2021, his friends provided him with a chance to start a coffee shop. Yet, it was not until the subsequent year that he officially launched Hid’n Coffee. “While business is generally good, it is not without challenges,” he admitted. “Small businesses like ours immediately feel the effects of sudden price increases of goods, changes in government policies, and external factors that indirectly affect us, like the recent fuel increase.”
Lumawag does not believe that coffee is gaining popularity these days, as he considers coffee as “kind of a staple drink.” He further explained, “Coffee is something people tend to look for regularly, whether it is instant coffee or that offered in third-wave coffee shops.
“Coffee is embedded within our society,” he further stated. “Thus, coffee is something that lingers in the minds of people daily – we have meetings, we need to get coffee; after you time-in, people tend to prepare a cup of coffee before work or have one beside them; if someone is feeling drowsy in the afternoon, they tend to look for coffee.”
