Durian is perhaps one of the most controversial fruits ever. “No other fruit creates such conflicting opinions,” wrote Brash. “Throughout Southeast Asia the green, hedgehog-shaped ‘king of the fruits’ is appreciated as haute cuisine to be savored like wine or truffles. Westerners, however, are confused by the hype because, well, durians smell like road kill wrapped in sweaty socks and have the texture of rotten bananas.”
Not too many know that American author Mark Twain (of Tom Sawyer distinction) also had its share of durian experience. In his book Following the Equator, he wrote of “a most strange fruit” whose “incomparably delicious to the taste, but not to the smell.”
“We found many who had eaten the durian, and they all spoke of it with a sort of rapture,” Twain penned. “They said that if you could hold your nose until the fruit was in your mouth a sacred joy would suffuse you from head to foot that would make you oblivious to the smell of the rind, but that if your grip slipped and you caught the smell of the rind before the fruit was in your mouth, you would faint.”
British naturalist Alfred Russell Wallace had the same experience. After a visit to the Interior of Borneo in 1855, he observed the offensive smell of durian in the house; some persons did not even attempt to taste it. “This was also my own experience when I first tried to taste it in Malacca; but in Borneo, I found a ripe fruit on the ground, and eating it out-of-doors, I became a confirmed durian eater.”
Where does the foul odor come from? In the 1912 issue of the Philippine Journal of Science, O.W. Barrett noted: “The chemical body which is responsible for the very pronounced odor is probably one of the sulfur compounds with some base perhaps related to that in butyric acid; it is not an oil nor a sugar, not a true starch but a substance new to the organic chemist.”
The word “durian” comes from the Indonesian “duri” (thorn) and is botanically known as Durio zibethinus. It is native to Indonesia and Malaysia. It also grows in Brunei, Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam.
Mindanao, particularly Davao region, remains the heart of Philippine durian production, known for varieties such as Puyat, Arancillo, Umali, D101, and several native types. Among these, Puyat stands out as the country’s most celebrated cultivar, prized for its “vibrant, sweet, and dense flesh,” making it both a consumer favorite and a leading export variety. Despite this strong foundation, growers acknowledge that Philippine durian varieties must be further improved to compete with the increasingly sophisticated durian industries of neighboring countries.
This recognition prompted a group of durian farmers and enthusiasts from Davao and Cotabato to embark on the Malaysia Durian Benchmarking Tour last July—an unprecedented initiative aimed at understanding how Malaysia became a global leader in premium durian production.
As former Davao de Oro governor and durian grower Arturo T. Uy explains, “Durian growing is the most challenging among other fruits farmers produce,” emphasizing the complexity of cultivating a fruit whose varieties “each have their own unique and complex taste.”
The benchmarking mission covered key durian-producing regions: Penang, Ipoh (Perak), Kuala Lumpur, and Negeri Sembilan.
“The tour was not merely a tasting expedition; it served as an educational endeavor to comprehend why Malaysia has emerged as one of the world’s most esteemed producers of premium durian,” says farmer Bernard A. Bautista from Makilala, North Cotabato.
Uy echoes the same sentiment, noting that Malaysia has long produced “the best tasting durians globally,” including the famed Musang King, Black Thorn, and Tupai King—varieties that command high prices and international demand.
Each Malaysian location offered distinct insights. Penang showcased its globally renowned Black Thorn, Green Skin, and traditional orchard practices. Perak, particularly Ipoh, highlighted strong commercial production systems and meticulous post-harvest handling.
Kuala Lumpur demonstrated Malaysia’s advanced retail framework, where premium fruits are sold under strict quality standards. Meanwhile, Negeri Sembilan revealed the richness of local varieties maintained through family-run orchards.
One of the most striking lessons, Bautista notes, is Malaysia’s “remarkable diversity,” with “hundreds of registered durian clones, each with unique flavor profiles, textures, aromas, and cultivation traits.”
This diversity is shaped by climate, soil conditions, local knowledge, and generations of orchard management. Malaysia has also successfully integrated durian into agrotourism, allowing visitors to explore orchards, meet growers, and enjoy curated tasting experiences.
Other notable varieties included Lobster, Super Jawi, Old Ginger, Kacang Hijau, Bitter Gourd, Susu, Lcy, Capri, D14, D88, MDUR78, Sandakan, DZ9, and Hunter King—each offering distinct sensory experiences.
As Bautista explains, “We focus on more than just sweetness. We examine the aroma, texture, bitterness, complexity, and finish—the unique personality of the fruit.”
He stresses that “the finest durians are not necessarily the most well-known,” noting that exceptional varieties often come from ancient orchards and lesser-known local selections.
Both Uy and Bautista believe the benchmarking mission can catalyze improvements in the Philippine durian industry. By studying Malaysia’s strengths in orchard management, variety preservation, quality grading, branding, marketing, and customer experience, Filipino growers can enhance competitiveness.
“Benchmarking is not merely about imitating another country’s achievements—it involves learning, adapting, and innovating,” Bautista emphasizes.
Ultimately, the group asserts that the future of the Philippine durian industry does not rely on individual farms competing with each other. “It is established through a cohesive Durian Local and Exporters Marketing Hub that links growers, exporters, processors, and international buyers. By merging quality, consistency, innovation, and collaboration, we can elevate Philippine durian from a local favorite to a globally acknowledged premium brand,” stated Uy and Bautista.
By the way, a serving of durian provides you with 3.6 grams of protein, or 6.4 percent to 7.8 percent of the daily recommended intake of 46 to 56 grams. A study published in the May 2010 issue of the American Journal of Gastroenterology indicates that protein from meat and fish may result in increased risk of irritable bowel syndrome, so getting your protein from fruit like durian may be wise if you are at risk of this condition.
