“Clothes could have more meaning and longevity if we think less about owning the latest or cheapest thing.” — Elizabeth L. Clinea, renowned expert on fast fashion,
sustainability, and labor rights
***
In the beginning, Adam and Eve were without any garments to conceal their bodies. However, upon consuming the forbidden fruit, they transgressed and subsequently became aware of their nakedness.
One biblical scholar explained, “While they remained sinless, they felt no necessity for any form of covering. There was no judgment or scrutiny directed towards them. Once they had sinned, they became acutely conscious, burdened by guilt and shame, of their nakedness. Consequently, they crafted garments from fig leaves to cover their loins, or genital areas.”
Today, clothing is recognized as a crucial element in defining our humanity. The advent of clothing allowed our ancestors to explore various regions of the planet, utilize diverse resources and environments, and engage with a wider community.
In modern society, clothing is linked to identity and social standing. But archaeological findings suggest that, aside from providing warmth, clothing was not essential for the functioning of societies or cultures.
“Fashion is part of the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes,” says Diana Vreeland, an American fashion editor and columnist.
“What you wear is how you present yourself to the world, especially today, when human contacts are so quick. Fashion is an instant language,” commented Miuccia Prada, Italian fashion designer and businesswoman.
Origin
The act of wearing clothing is a unique trait of humans and is prevalent in the majority of human societies. There has been ongoing debate among scientists regarding the timeline of when humans first started donning garments.
Anthropologists suggest that coverings were fashioned from animal skins and plant materials to shield against cold, heat, and rain, particularly as humans moved into different climates. The practice of silk weaving is believed to have originated in India around 400 AD, while cotton spinning is thought to have begun in India around 3000 BC.
However, a recent archaeological dig at Neolithic Mehrgarh, as discussed in the article “Analysis of Mineralized Fibers from a Copper Bead,” indicates that cotton fibers were utilized in the Indus Valley around 7000 BC.
Textiles consist of felt or spun fibers that are transformed into yarn and then netted, looped, knitted, or woven to create fabrics, which emerged in the Middle East during the late Stone Age.
From ancient times to the present, the techniques of textile production have continuously progressed, and the variety of available textiles has shaped how individuals transport their belongings, dress themselves, and adorn their environments.
Fashion industry
In the Philippines, the fashion industry is a significant business. A study conducted by YouGov Omnibus in 2017 showed that nearly one in five individuals (19%) possess over 100 pieces of clothing (not including underwear or accessories). Millennials, defined as those aged between 16 and 34, represent the highest percentage of new clothing ownership; 42% of millennials report having bought at least half of their current wardrobe in the past year. In contrast, only 28% of baby boomers (individuals over 55) claim the same.
The study also highlighted the magnitude of clothing waste in the country. It indicates that 65% of Filipino adults have discarded clothing at some point during the past year, with nearly a quarter (24%) admitting to having disposed of more than ten clothing items within the same timeframe. Almost three out of ten respondents (29%) have discarded a piece of clothing after wearing it only once, and in the last year, nearly one-fifth of all participants (18%) have thrown away at least three items that they wore just once.
“Ukay-ukay”
“Ukay-ukay” enjoys immense popularity among Filipinos. It is referred to as such because individuals must dig and sift (halukay in Tagalog or ukay in Cebuano) through heaps of used garments. This phenomenon is said to have originated in Baguio, where it is known as wagwag (an Ilocano term meaning “to dust off” or “to shake”) due to the necessity for buyers to shake off dust from the pre-owned clothing.
Today, what was once a modest business has evolved into a multi-million-peso enterprise. Unbeknownst to many, “ukay-ukay” is no longer limited to the less fortunate; even the most fashionable individuals are rummaging through the stacks of used clothing in search of that ideal vintage item.
“Some bargain hunters consider it like fun when hauling through heaps and racks of passed down textile that is not always in the best condition and clean,” said the CNN iReport. “For a few, it is the equivalent of treasure hunting; for many, it is an ongoing quest for affordable clothing and an inevitable part of common life.”
Fashion waste
What happens when these clothes are worn out or no longer usable? Martina Igini, of Earth.Org, said that out of the 100 billion garments manufactured annually, 92 million tons are discarded in landfills.
To provide context of the figures above, this indicates that a truckload of clothing is disposed of in landfill sites every second. Should this trend persist, fast fashion waste is projected to escalate to 134 million tons per year by the end of the decade.
Igini further states that the global carbon dioxide emissions from the apparel industry are anticipated to rise by 50% by 2030. “If the current trajectory continues without any measures taken to mitigate fast fashion waste, the industry’s global emissions are expected to potentially double by the end of the decade,” she emphasized.
Currently, the fashion industry accounts for 20% of the world’s wastewater, the United Nations Environment Program reports. According to Igini, the processes of dyeing and finishing – which involve the application of color and various chemicals to fabrics – contribute to 3% of global carbon dioxide emissions and over 20% of worldwide water pollution. Together with yarn preparation and fiber production, these two processes have the most significant effects on resource depletion, primarily due to their energy-intensive nature reliant on fossil fuels.
In addition to being a major source of water pollution, fast fashion also leads to the wastage of vast amounts of water daily. For instance, producing one kilogram of cotton requires 20,000 liters of water, according to Igini. To put this into perspective, approximately 2,700 liters of water are necessary to manufacture a single t-shirt, which is sufficient for one person to drink for 900 days. Furthermore, a typical washing machine load consumes between 50 and 60 liters of water.
Fashion waste is indeed an issue that needs to be addressed. As Reina Rose B. Realino, a technology transfer, information, and promotion staff of the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) puts it: “The fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to environmental pollution and the textile waste primarily ends up in landfills or incinerators, significantly impacting ecosystems and contributing to climate change.”
In the Philippines, textile waste generated from manufacturing and post-production activities continues to build up, leading to environmental degradation and depletion of resources.
In 2023, Filipino households spent ₱232 billion for clothing and footwear, a statistic that signifies not only economic advancement but also an escalating waste management crisis. According to Bayo Manila Inc., a prominent local clothing brand, the country generates approximately 16 tons of textile waste each year.
Without a proper recycling system, much of this waste remains unused, representing both an environmental challenge and an economic loss. “There are enough clothes on the planet right now, enough to dress six generations of the human race,” pointed out Dr. Julius L. Leano, Jr., PTRI of the Department of Science and Technology, during the National Textile Convention.
“Now, textile production has gone up as well, from 58 million tons in 2000 to about 109 million tons in 2020 and is projected to grow to 145 million tons by 2030. So, again, it’s not just about production. I’m building the point because we’re going toward asking everyone as well to shift not just our way of producing but our way of consuming.”
In pursuit of a long-term and sustainable resolution to the issue of fashion waste, the PTRI has partnered with Bayo Manila Inc. to initiate the Textile Revitalized (TexRev) Project. This project aims to revolutionize the textile industry within the country by repurposing post-industrial fabric remnants into premium sustainable yarns, thus fostering circularity in the fashion industry.
“The creative industry is a powerful catalyst for promoting sustainable production and responsible material use. Filipinos are deeply visual and experiential — when sustainability resonates, it inspires real change,” Dr. Leaño observed. “TexRev is more than a recycling initiative; it’s a movement toward a circular economy, proving that waste can be transformed into opportunity.”
Anna Losanta Marie A. Lagon, co-CEO of Bayo Manila Inc., also said, “Through our commitment to the UN Global Compact and our collaboration with PTRI, we are proving that a Filipino fashion brand can lead in circular fashion, creating impact both locally and globally. We believe the future of fashion is truly circular.”
In her report, Realino shares this information: The TexRev process starts with the collection and categorization of textile waste based on color and material type. The fabrics are then cut and shredded into fibers, followed by quality testing. After impurities are eliminated through carding, the fibers are spun into yarn, mixed with virgin materials, and subjected to strength and durability testing.
Subsequently, the yarns are transformed into fabric and undergo finishing processes such as dyeing, water repellency treatment, and antimicrobial coating, all aimed at promoting sustainable fashion and home textiles.
TexRev transcends the concept of a mere recycling initiative. It represents a crucial advancement towards a circular economy, wherein waste is converted into valuable resources.
“The project helps reduce textile waste and landfill accumulation, alleviating the environmental burden caused by discarded fabrics. It also minimizes water and energy consumption compared to traditional virgin fiber production, making it a more sustainable alternative,” Realino states.
In short, TexRev offers fashion and other textile brands a responsible choice, enabling them to shift away from conventional textiles and adopt a more sustainable manufacturing approach.
Fashion waste may be a costly problem, but it is also a window of opportunity.
