Halo-halo: A hodgepodge story

Text and photos by Henrylito D. Tacio
The Filipino dessert halo-halo was recently included in an American website’s list of “10 food fads worth traveling for.” Christine Sarkis, author of the article in smartertravel.com, which was also published in the website of USA Today, wrote: “In its native Philippines, halo-halo (pronounced hah-low rather than hay-low) isn’t a mere passing fad, it’s a classic summer treat.” Three summers ago, the Cable News Network (CNN) handpicked halo-halo as among the “top 25 summer delicious foods” in the United States. “In some countries, the coldest, sweetest dishes are considered the best foods for summer,” wrote Elizabeth Leigh, author of the CNN report. “In others, the hottest – in both senses of the word – are considered the best way to beat the heat.” Leigh said halo-halo got the thumbs up from American celebrity chef and television personality Anthony Bourdain when the intrepid eater had it at Jollibee in Los Angeles for his show, “Parts Unknown.” Bourdain is not alone. In fact, foreigners who have tried halo-halo considered it as one of the best impromptu treats. “Bright, sweet, and bursting with attractions,” one American author wrote in “Gourmet” magazine. “Halo-halo is the Las Vegas of iced desserts.” Halo-halo has been “taking over New York City,” according to an article published in “The Atlantic Wire.” Literally translated, halo-halo means “mix mix” in Tagalog.  It is often used as a metaphor for the country’s own distinctive mixture of East and West.  You can see these cross-influences in the dessert itself, a mélange of ingredients served in a tall, clear glass and eaten with a long spoon. Halo-halo is a representative of the various sweets Filipinos enjoy. Legumes, root crops and fruits are cooked in syrup until tender and sweet. Egg yolks and milk are made into “leche” flan.  Ube is grated for “haleya.” Fresh ripe fruits are cubed, “pinipig” is toasted, “buko” is grated and if one has time – “sorbetes” or ice cream can even be made.  All these are put in a tall glass that is then filled with shaved ice.  Sweet, cool and decadently nutritious, halo-halo is a filling tribute at the end of a satisfying meal. Although it may be enjoyed throughout the year, halo-halo is most popular during the summer months, particularly from March through July.  The concoction is usually served in tall dessert or parfait glasses but it can also be served in a shallow bowl. Filipino culinary experts suggest that halo-halo is best enjoyed in a logical eating progression, based upon how the dessert is constructed. The top layer (ice cream) melts and combines with the exotic tropical fruits and beans that reside underneath. This is the heart of the dessert, which is best enjoyed with a spoon. The part of the dessert that is left, the melted ice cream, evaporated milk, shaved ice and any juice components, is sipped slowly and sensually.  And the latter is the best part of the dessert. No one knows who concocted the first halo-halo in the Philippines.  But historical records showed that it was first introduced by “karayukisan-san,” Japanese women groups who traveled to East Asia and Southeast Asia to work as prostitutes about 100 years ago. These women, after retiring from prostitution, started to make Japanese sweets using Philippines’ local fruits and crops for new business. Some people believed halo-halo is a modification of the Filipino “guinataan,” a general snack classification of a sweet soup or porridge made with “gata” (coconut milk) and whatever bean, root crop, or fruit you want to add. Today, halo-halo is sort of an icon among iced desserts.  It has been compared to an American ice cream sundae, but with added flavors, textures and protein.  In Japan, it is mentioned the television show, “Degrassi: The Next Generation.”  In the Season 7 episode, “We Got the Beat,” Jay was eating dinner at Manny’s house when Manny’s mom inquired, “More halo-halo, Jay?” Halo-halo was also featured as a Quickfire Challenge dish in the seventh episode of the fourth season of the American reality television series, “Top Chef.”  The halo-halo, which featured avocado, mango, kiwi and nuts, was prepared by Filipino-American contestant Dale Talde and named as one of the top three Quickfire Challenge dishes by guest judge Johnny Iuzzini. The popular Black Eyed Peas make a reference to halo-halo in their song, “Mare.”  Video game Dead or Alive 4 secret character Nicole lists the delectable dessert as her favorite. In the Philippines, halo-halo was originally sold along roadside stands, but it is now available in sweet shops, in shopping malls and as a meal-ender in both casual and fancier restaurants. In addition, many Filipinos are also making halo-halo at home for their families, something that is becoming easier to do.  Recipes for halo-halo vary widely, due to personal preferences as well as the type and variety of fruits and beans that are in season. For those who are interested in making their own halo-halo, here’s one recipe good for four persons.  Estimated preparation time is about 50 minutes. You need the following: one ripe large banana, two ripe mangoes or 1 cup canned ripe mango, one cup firm gelatin set into gel (cut into 1/2-inch cubes), one cup canned ripe jackfruit, one-half cup sweet corn, one cup young shredded coconut (fresh or canned), one cup cooked sweet yams or (“ube halaya”) glutinous purple yam (cut into 1-inch cubes), two cups shaved ice, two cups milk, four scoops of your favorite ice cream, and one-half cup chopped peanuts or “pinipig.” How to prepare it: Peel mangoes and slice the meat into one-half-inch cubes. Discard the seeds. Then, prepare four tall glasses. Divide each ingredient into four equal parts.  In each glass place one-fourth of each ingredient, adding layer by layer starting with corn, cooked sweet yams, jackfruit, bananas, coconut, and gelatin.  Top it with one-half cup shaved ice.  Pour one-fourth cup milk over shaved ice and top with a scoop of ice cream. Sprinkle nuts or “pinipig” over it.  Each person may eat as it is or mix the whole concoction before eating. Some of the ingredients may be substituted with cherries, crushed pineapple, papaya, or any other ripe fruits in season.  Halo-halo, anyone?