It smells like hell but tastes like heaven. That’s what one international scribe described durian, the king of tropical fruits.
The durian, a fruit that has sparked considerable debate, is prominently associated with Davao City, which will host a two-day national summit focused on the durian industry from November 25 to 26.
According to the organizers, the purpose of the summit is to elevate the reputation of Philippine durian on a global scale.
“This is an opportunity for farmers to get first-hand information. If you have concerns, this is your chance to ask questions. In the Philippines, we are still behind in durian technology – we have a lot to learn,” Fe Oguio, an agriculturist and the focal person on durian and cacao of the City Agriculturist Office, was quoted as saying.
She encouraged farmers, especially those involved in durian cultivation, to participate in the summit. The event will feature international speakers from Malaysia, Thailand, and Australia, who will impart their knowledge on production methods and international quality standards. In addition, discussions will also address the climate-related challenges impacting production this year.
“I encourage all farmers, especially those in durian production, to join. A lot can be learned from this two-day summit, and it’s also a chance to network with exhibitors,” she emphasized.
Among Filipinos, durian is the second most favorite fruit – after mango. In a survey conducted by this author, about 40% of respondents singled out durian as their fruit of all seasons.
“Nothing beats durian,” said Dr. Hilario Lapeña, a Filipino physician who now works in Canada, when asked about his most favorite fruit. “I have tasted lots of exotic fruits, but I still go back to my all-time favorite – the durian.”
Another physician, who describes herself as a fruit lover, likes to eat all kinds of fruits, tropical or otherwise. But durian is the best, according to her. “My first encounter (with durian) was not very pleasant due to its smell. But once you have tasted its soft creamy pulp, you’ll learn to love it. My husband is from Laguna and it took so much prodding before he tasted it. Today, durian is his favorite fruit.”
Unknowingly, durian is perhaps one of the most controversial fruits in this part of the world. You either love it or loathe it – due to its smell. Most people, particularly the foreigners, say the fruit stinks, but to some, specifically the locals, its fragrance can be compared to a perfume.
English writer William Somerset Maugham once compared durian to “a combination of cornflower, rotten cheese, nectarines, crushed filbert (hazel nuts), a dash of pineapple, a spoonful of old dry sherry, thick cream, apricot pulp and soup corn of garlic, all reduced to the consistency of a thick custard.”
In his diary, the 19th-century British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace wrote that his journey to the east was worth it, “if only to taste durian fruit.” He explained further: “Its rich brimstone musk, whispering of depravity and month-old eggs… durian is to fruit what limburger is to cheese and pornography is to literature.”
Another historian wrote: “To those who are used to it, the durian fruit seems to smell like rotten onions, but after they have tasted it, they prefer it to all other fruits.”
Yet, most airlines won’t allow it on board. Even air-conditioned vehicles ban transporting durian from one place to another. Most, if not all, hotels won’t allow anyone bringing durian into the room. The reason: it will suffocate the people inside the room and it’s too hard to get rid of the odor that, as one scribe describes it, “smells like hell.”
On the average, the edible portion or aril is only 26% of the fruit by weight. According to the Food and Nutrition Research Institute, the fruit is rich in vitamin C, phosphorus, calcium, and iron. Likewise, it contains fair amounts of thiamin, riboflavin, niacin. It is also a good source of carbohydrates, proteins and fats.
The “foul” odor of the fruit comes largely from the edible portion. In the 1912 issue of the Philippine Journal of Science, O.W. Barrett noted: “The chemical body which is responsible for the very pronounced odor is probably one of the sulfur compounds with some base perhaps related to that in butyric acid; it is not an oil nor a sugar, not a true starch but a substance new to the organic chemist.”
The word “durian” comes from the Indonesian duri (thorn) and is botanically known as Durio zibethinus. It is native to Indonesia and Malaysia. It also grows in Brunei, Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam.
Durian is eaten right after opening the fruit or as a frozen commodity. It can also be made into jam, candy, tart, and polvoron. Unripe durian is cooked like a vegetable. Half-ripe or unripe durian are also utilized in making chips and soups.
Durian can likewise be transformed into a delightful ice cream or a refreshing milkshake. However, as an ingredient in a blender, it appears that the king of fruits does not blend well with lesser varieties. The unique flavor of durian typically prevails, and in certain instances, combining it with other fruits can enhance the garlicky aspect of durian in undesirable ways.
For those eager to experience durian for the first time, it is essential to purchase the highest quality. But how can you determine if the durian you are acquiring is authentic? Here is a suggestion from the experts: “When selecting a durian to buy, examine the stem; if it is dry, the durian is likely old. If the stem has been severed, shake the fruit and listen for the seeds rattling inside; if you hear a sound, the pulp has probably lost some moisture and is therefore less flavorful.”
