Retreat to Galveston

By Adi C. Quisido

Galveston Island is our favorite day-trip destination south of Texas, when the calling for wide, open spaces, balmy sea breeze, and the sight and sound of rolling waves is too strong to resist.
Located 50 miles south of Houston, Galveston is only two and a half miles wide, but has 32 miles of cream-colored sand beaches holding off the brownish water of the Gulf of Mexico.
The color of the water may not be inviting, but once you’re in it, you can actually see your feet. They say the color is simply a reflection of the light brown sand underneath the water. Still others say it is caused by runoffs from Trinity River, and even from as far as the Mississippi River.
Depending on the current, sometimes the water clears up enough for a good swim. But the most that I have done to enjoy its cold water is to walk along the beach as it laps on my feet.
Although it’s a far cry from our white sand beaches in Davao, Galveston Beach has a charm all its own. What makes up for its poor water clarity is a seemingly endless strip of narrow beach.  Parallel to the beach line is Seawall Boulevard where you can have a long, windy drive while admiring the Gulf Coast.
Another attraction are the huge but gentle seagulls that fly in flocks along the beach, eagerly waiting for food scraps left or thrown to them by beachgoers. It’s amazing how they can pluck a morsel off your fingers without actually touching you. It’s scary but worth the thrill. I wouldn’t make a habit of it though, as there is a strong advice to visitors not to feed the birds, for obvious reasons.
The town itself has so much more to offer that makes this island a favourite place to chill. Galveston is best known for its 19th century architecture steeped in rich history.  It has stately mansions, Victorian-style houses, and charming pastel-coloured beach houses.
This town is so laid-back, you can walk during summer along its shady, oak-lined streets in your flip-flops, shorts, and t-shirt, and no one will bother you.  A leisurely stroll or a slow drive will allow you to admire the rows of Victorian-style houses with their pretty bay windows, wooden arches, iron railings, slate roofs, and sometimes stained glass windows and doorways.
The houses and buildings give you a glimpse of old Galveston, as many of its historic structures have been preserved and restored to its old glory. In fact, they have the Galveston Historical Foundation that holds specialized tours showcasing historic island homes that tell of a tumultuous past of storm damage and restoration.
The island has had its share of calamities, some worse enough to bring it to its knees. But in the aftermath of each natural disaster, Galveston rose to the challenge of rebuilding its infrastructure and rekindling its lifestyle.
It prides itself for restoring and preserving historic structures that have become tourist attractions. Its grandest and most well-known is the Bishop’s Palace, tall and imposing with ornate, cream-colored stone, stained glass windows, spires, and sculpted bronze dragons.
Built from 1886 to 1892, this Victorian castle is said to be cited as one of the 100 most important buildings in America. Keep that in mind when you stand a few feet away from its grandness, and marvel at the thought of all those hands that helped build it over a century ago.
Another restored historic home is the Moody Mansion Museum, a symbol of the elite lifestyle of one of the most powerful families in Texas.  Owned by William Lewis Moody, the mansion is 28,000 square feet and reportedly has 32 luxuriously decorated rooms.  
While Galveston took pains to restore its historic homes, sadly the spirit of restoration did not save the Flagship Hotel along Seawall Boulevard after another storm hit it in 2008.  The hotel had stood on the pier from 1965 until 2011. I first saw it in 2006 and was in awe of the sight of it seemingly suspended over the waters of the Gulf.
I could see the outline of the amusement park called Pleasure Pier that now stands on the pier where Flagship Hotel used to be. But I did not ask to be brought there, nor did I take a picture of it. I was a little heartbroken not seeing the familiar sight of the hotel on the water, and a little sad at the thought of Galveston losing a historical landmark.
I’m sure the new park has a lot of fun and entertainment to offer, but I’ll investigate that another time, when my daughter is with me to enjoy all the rides she wants, and my husband is there to watch over her.  For now, I just wanted to see the beaches, charming Victorian houses, and 19th century commercial buildings in the downtown area.
So what else can one enjoy in Galveston? There’s plenty, I’d say. You can sample the offerings of home-grown restaurants, shop at antique stores and souvenir shops, visit local art galleries, and take a tour of restored homes and historic downtown and marvel at their rich history.
If you have the energy, enjoy the aquatic rides and attractions at Schlitterbahn Waterpark, where you can spend a whole day and still not want to leave.
Or you can just spend a leisurely day at the beach, where the wind doesn’t seem to subside and seagulls keep you company. And make sure to drive the stretch of Seawall Boulevard while admiring the spectacular Galveston sunset.
It was a quiet visit; no fanfare, no cheap thrills. Just beautiful, old architecture, tree-lined avenues, a constant sea breeze, seagulls suspended in the wind, and an endless stretch of quiet beach. A perfect getaway before returning to reality.

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