By JON JOAQUIN
Photos courtesy of John Wilson Benolirao
All of a sudden, seemingly from out of nowhere, Filipinos are making a name for themselves as the best baristas in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). A feature on latte art that appeared in The National, an Abu Dhabi English-language publication, on August 23, 2015 cited Filipinos as being at the forefront of the coffee culture in the Middle East. And among these Filipino baristas is Davao City’s very own Wilson John Benolirao, 29, who once worked at Kangaroo Coffee Company, Blugré Coffee Company, and The Coffee Pod and now works at Boon Coffee in Dubai. According to writer by Rachel Ingram, John “was named one of the best up-and-coming coffee masters” in the UAE by his fellow Master Baristas.
John visited Davao City a couple of months ago and this writer was able to sample some of his creations at Kangaroo Coffee. He used a pour-over coffee maker (essentially a cup with holes at the bottom) and employed high-tech tools like a digital weighing scale and an iPhone app to calculate the optimum balance of water and coffee (in terms of amount, temperature, and brewing time). He is also a master at latte art and makes unique designs on the foam on top of the lattes he serves. John has since moved back to Dubai but we reached out to him and did an online interview.
EDGE Davao: How did you start out as a barista?
Wilson John Benolirao: I started my career accidentally — or you can say it was God-given opportunity. I was hired by Mr. Mark Seng, my Sensei, and he trained us, the crew of Kangaroo Coffee Company. I was astounded by his coffee knowledge, experience, and stories of his experiences outside the country. From there I built from my own curiosity and passion. Soon I was given the chance to be in charge of the bar at Kangaroo.
I also did self-study. I improved my sensory skills, brewing techniques, knowledge of coffee beans and equipment, and my approach to coffee. I began entering competitions and won.
EDGE: What made you decide to go abroad?
JOHN: I decided to go abroad in order to acquire more knowledge, skills, and approach to coffee so that someday I can share it with my fellow baristas in Davao and elevate the coffee culture back home.
EDGE: Are there many other Filipino baristas there who are making a name for themselves?
JOHN: Yes, 80 percent of the baristas here in UAE are Filipino. Most of us are working in bigger companies in commercial and specialty coffee shops as Master baristas, barista Trainers, and Coffee Educators. We also have a Filipino who had made it to the World barista Championship and World Latte Art Competition. Here in the UAE you have to compete among baristas to gain name and respect.
EDGE: Can you give tips on how to make great coffee at home? What’s the best home brewing method?
JOHN: Use freshly roasted coffee beans and know when the “peak” is for Its features. Use good water — distilled or purified with controlled pH level and TDS (Total Dissolve Solubles) and zero chlorine, Grind only as much as you need. Store beans in an airtight container. Use a clean coffee brewer. Play around with water temperature because not all coffees are good to percolate/brew in boiling water temperature.Â
For home brewing, my first option is V60 (pour-over) which can highlight the flavors so well. Second is the Aeropress, which can highlight flavors and body.
EDGE: So what’s the secret to a good cup of coffee?
JOHN: Know your coffee beans and how to percolate, brew, or extract its features. Use good quality coffee beans, good machine and equipment, good water, and coffee grind that corresponds with your brewing method. Know what water-to-coffee ratio, coffee filter medium, and water temperature to use. Coffee Masters usually strive for “optimum balance” balance of sweetness, acidity, bitterness, body, and flavors.
We believe that there is no such thing as a perfect cup of coffee, only optimum balance. Anticipation and knowledge of whom you want to serve are key. You can’t always please people with different palates.
And of course everything is useless without passion. My passion keeps growing that I crave for more. To me passion plays the biggest role as a barista. Without it your coffee is just flat.
