URBANISSMO: Northern cuisine: Baguio’s food experience

urbanissmo by kenneth irving ongKnown for its cool mountain air and temperate climate, Baguio definitely feels different from the lowlands of Durianburg. It may seem at first glance that there is nothing similar between the two cities, what both Davao and Baguio do have in common is a passion for the arts, a strong cultural identity, and love for good food.

From the street food you can buy at the night market near Burnham Park to the fancy restaurants along Outlook Drive, there are many delicious food choices and memorable experiences all around the City of Pines.

Take it to the Streets

The street food of any city often reflects the culture of the place and this is no exception in Baguio which has a flourishing night market. Called the Harrison Night Market, it is located on Harrison Street beside Burnham Park. The market is known for its vendors that sell used clothes as well as affordable souvenirs and, of course, street food.

Fried, grilled, or steamed, the variety of street food present at the Harrison Night Market is varied and interesting. There is the usual fare of grilled meats and balls on a stick and the more adventurous, you can try the betamax (pork blood squares), isaw (chicken intestines), Adidas (chicken feet), and even day-old chicks.

There are also booths that sell sandwiches, noodles, and peanuts but my eyes went straight to the binatog. Binatog is corn cooked in lye similar to hominy and served together with grated coconut and salt. The lye changed the texture of the corn kernels making it soft and creamy with the addition of salt and coconut giving it a pop of flavour.

Strawberries, oranges and other fresh produce fill Baguio’s markets.
Strawberries, oranges and other fresh produce fill Baguio’s markets.

Market fare

One of the charms of Baguio are its clean public markets which are a heaven for food lovers. Top off the bat are the fresh vegetables that can be bought at relatively cheap prices and the famous Baguio strawberries. There are also other fresh surprises when you visit the fruit and vegetable section such as passion fruits sold in clusters, and Sagada Oranges which are the size of a small pomelo and are extremely sweet with a nice tart finish.

Pinakbet and Bagnet galore

Baguio may be the capital of the Cordillera Administrative Region, but much of its cuisine also comes from neighbouring Ilocos where the “national” dishes are Pinakbet (a stew of local vegetables) and Bagnet (double fried crispy pork belly). In Baguio, you are always

A vendor sells peanuts and binatog.

sure to encounter these two dishes.

Traditional Fare

For a peek into authentic Cordillera cuisine, one can visit the Farmer’s Daughter Restaurant. Located on the outskirts of the city, the restaurant serves traditional Igorot favourites such as Pinikpikan (a traditional chicken soup flavoured with salted meat), Sungo Guisado (sautéed pig snout), and Tinadtad (a mix of various pig organs and offal including brain).

Comfy dining at Decades along Outlook Drive.
Comfy dining at Decades along Outlook Drive.

Most notable though are the Kinuday dishes. Kinuday means smoked meat and Farmer’s Daughter makes their own smoked meats made the traditional way. You can choose from smoked pork, beef or chicken. The smoke adds another dimension to the meats which ordinary grilling does not give. Another smoked delicacy is Pinueg a traditional Ibaloi blood sausage using pork intestines and blood.

Restaurant row

For those who want to explore the more sophisticated dining establishments in Baguio one needs only to go to Outlook Drive. What used to be a quite residential road, Outlook Drive is now the location of many fancy dining restaurants converted from the old mansions in the area. From Mediterranean to ASEAN fusion, from cocktails to desserts, there is sure to be a restaurant for everyone.

 

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