If you think that Taiwan is all about just Taipei 101 and night markets, then maybe a visit to the island country’s oldest city and former capital, Tainan, will definitely change the way you view and experience Taiwan.
A gem of a city located just an hour and 45 minutes via high speed rail from Taipei or 45 minutes via regular rail from Kaohsiung (via AirAsia’s direct Manila-Kauhsiung flight), Tainan is “no ordinary city” as its laid back charm, hipster vibe and quaint cafe culture make for a fun and memorable experience.
Historical forts
Taiwan was once a colony of the Dutch and traces of Dutch architecture still remain today. Located on the outskirts of Tainan is Fort Zeelandia (also known as Anping Old Fort), which was built in 1624 and the anchor point of early settlements in Tainan, it is currently a comprehensive museum exhibiting plaques on its grounds as well as an old-customs house and various exhibitions regarding its construction and purposes.
Located in downtown Tainan is Fort Provintia. Built in 1653 by the Dutch during their colonization of Taiwan the forst was eventually surrendered to Koxinga, a Chinese Ming loyalist who resisted the Qing conquest of China in the 17th century. It is now known today as Chikkan Tower.
Temple run
Although Taipei may be the current capital of Taiwan, Tainan is definitely the place to be to have a temple run when in Taiwan. With dozens of temples dating back all the way to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, one can easily get overwhelmed by the complex designs each temple hosts.
Some notable temples to visit include the massive Matsu Grand Temple dedicated to the Chinese sea goddess Matzu, the God of War Temple dedicated to the Hang dynasty general deified as the Chinese god of war Guangong, and the Temple of Avalokitesvara or Guanyin, which is one of the oldest wooden structures in Taiwan and features a huge clay statue of the deity.
What makes Tainan’s temple more fascinating, is that all the old temples are still being used up to this day with the local temple caretakers more than willing to show one around the temple grounds.
Japanese-Western
architecture
Before World War II Taiwan was a colony of Japan, and this is evident in Tainan with many significant buildings built by the Japanese, since back then, Tainan was the most populous city on Taiwan.
A building one should visit it the Hayashi Department Store building. The 6-storey building is the home of the Hayashi Department Store which is the oldest department store on Taiwan. The building is still in use and the department store carries various Taiwanese products from food, to fashion, to home accessories, and souvenirs.
Located just a stone’s throw from the Hayashi Department Store is the National Museum of Taiwan Literature. Housed in a magnificent historical building built in 1916, the museum researches, catalogs, preserves, and exhibits literary artifacts and, as part of its multilingual, multi-ethnic focus, it holds a large collection of local works in Taiwanese, Japanese, Mandarin and Classical Chinese.
Another beautiful building is the Former Tainan Meeting Hall built in 1911. Located within the Tainan Wu Garden compound, visitors can take a breather and relax under the share of its waterside pavilion.
Don’t forget the food
Tainan is no exception to Taiwan’s diverse and exciting food scene with many interesting food finds and milk tea places in every corner.
Aside from the typical night market fare, one of my favourite eats in Tainan is at Du Hsiao Yueh. A restaurant that opened in 1895 in the same location as its restaurant in Tainan, Du Hsiao Yueh is famous for its Dai Zai Mien which are eggs noodles soup, topped with minced pork sauce and shrimp. The portion may be a bit small but each bite is flavourful and the hot soup is the perfect accompaniment to a cold evening.
I have to admit that prior to my visit to Tainan event last year, I had no idea what the city had to offer, but after staying for a weekend, I could say that its many quaint streets, Instagrammable nooks, massive temples, and historic structures made my adventure worth every moment of my visit.
