An endless pursuit of stoke, they would call it. The unquenchable and never-ending desire to explore worlds unknown. To surf where no man or woman has surfed before and to revel at the moment–the gift that we can only experience once–to live in the now. Fully present in the experience and thoroughly engaging your senses with what’s right in front of you.
Now I know why those who have long dedicated their lives in the relentless search of that perfect wave, perfect spot, and perfect swell—to fill the unquenchable, to the tame the untamed thirst, to chase the ultimate stoke—what then are the fruits of adventure and the discovery of the unknown if not for those who chase after it, to enjoy?
I still can’t wrap my head around the weekend that had past. A moment ago, I was in the hard-to-love city of Manila and the next thing I knew, I was in a pickup turned into a surf rig–exploring unmapped territories in this island’s surf history.
Surfing is in its infancy, having only been introduced to island locals in 2013. Five years later, only a handful of surfers still itched to search for the ultimate stoke through unexplored coastlines. I have always been drawn to adventures that force me out of my comfort zone whether it be through challenging and unfamiliar waves or getting through the night in a tent out in the wilderness with no manmade development at all.
As an outsider, I have the highest respect and gratitude to the pioneering surfers of the island for allowing me to experience what their beautiful island had to give me. Shan Cabiguen, Virgillo Abid, Ryan, and Louie—you guys have made my quick weekend trip worth more than what I paid for.
These guys, Shan and Virgillo, in particular, have in some ways, adopted me into their circle and have generously introduced me to unforgettable spots and the warmest and interesting people I’ve ever met.
For a weekend surfer turned digital nomad turned workaholic handling more jobs than I should, this weekend was a welcome escape and respite from the routine I have unknowingly trapped myself in.
I cannot imagine surfing spots with the crew for the first time together with them. Being the only female in the squad, I was privileged to be among the first, if not the single, female to have surfed a handful of spots in the West coast of the island.
Let that sink for a minute—I made personal and probably surf history in that island—to be the first female to surf and not die in those areas on these dates: November 24-25,2018.
The beauty of the places could only be appreciated even more by sitting in the lineup, staring back at the beach and following the shoreline as it blurs and connects to the mountains behind it. Picturesque—like I was looking at a surf magazine and feeling like I was at the other end turning pages, but I’m not! I’m in it, whole heart and mind and soul–absorbing the moment as much as my senses would let me. If cameras could document all the sensory overload that was happening, I would have instantly filled the memory card. It was that magical.
I stared and fell in love. Now, I understand the mystery and allure of exploring the unknown in endless pursuit of stoke. I don’t think, and I don’t want to go back to surfing what already has been defined as a surfing destination when I could have the opportunity to explore more. Unless I’m restricted by time and finances, but if I had the choice, I’d go where no man or woman has surfed before—a whole other level of going out of your comfort zone.
